Surfing in Wales is hard work, waves are rarely epic and the weather is a lottery on a good day. The rare combination of good waves, warm water and nice weather is so infrequent your never quite sure whether it actually happened or you'd just imagined it. However as an oft quoted saying goes, "there's no such thing as bad waves, only the wrong equipment". While I firmly believe I have experienced bad waves, nonetheless it is my ambition to try and create the right equipment.
There's nothing quite like a wooden surfboard. It's not as easy to work as foam. Or as cheap. It doesn't have the same flex. It's generally considerably heavier and can scare the life out of you when a wave launches it skyward. But it does look nice, and feels nice. Weight that seemed like a burden on the trek down the beach becomes inertia when your on a wave, pushing effortlessly through surface chop and sailing across flat section without missing a beat. And as much as an inanimate object can be deemed to have soul it feels alive. Your not paddling out with a surfboard, your paddling out with a teammate. That's how I feel anyway.